Field Report- Same Game. Different Wrapper.
Darlings.
I once shared a very long evening with Marlon Brando on the island of Tetiaroa. It was 1989 — the Apocalypse Now years were behind him, his weight was doing things that alarmed his tailor, and he was sitting on a veranda in the dark, smoking a Cuban cigar the size of a small truncheon and working his way through what I can only describe as a catastrophic quantity of Mallomars.
'Marlon,' I said — because one must be direct with great men — 'the cigar will kill you.'
He looked at me. That look, darlings. The Godfather look. The one that makes you feel as though your entire life is being audited.
'Reynard,' he said, gesturing at the Mallomars with the cigar, 'you want to know what's going to kill me? This. This is going to kill me. And the funny thing is — ' he tapped the cigar against the packet of Mallomars — 'the same people who make the money from this' — the cigar — 'make the money from this' — the Mallomars. 'Same people. Same game. Different wrapper.'
He took out a small notebook and wrote something down. He often did this, mes choux. I assumed at the time it was for a screenplay. In hindsight, darlings, I suspect it was a shopping list.
But Marlon was right. And this week, your favourite food freedom fighter is going to tell you exactly how right he was.
Because Big Food, darlings, is Big Tobacco. Not metaphorically. Not in some loose, rhetorical sense. Literally. The same companies. The same boardrooms. The same playbook.
In 1985, Philip Morris — the company behind Marlboro — bought General Foods. Three years later, they bought Kraft for thirteen billion dollars. Their rival, R.J. Reynolds — the company behind Camel cigarettes — had already acquired Nabisco. Between them, two cigarette companies controlled Kraft, Nabisco, General Foods, Jell-O, Oreos, Ritz crackers, Oscar Mayer, Maxwell House, and Lunchables. Two tobacco companies, mes choux, running America's food supply.
And what did they do with it?
Exactly what they did with cigarettes.
They hired the same scientists. They used the same research — sensory perception, physiological psychology, chemical manipulation of flavour — to re-engineer the food. They found what the industry calls the 'bliss point': the precise combination of sugar, salt and fat that triggers the brain's reward system, releases dopamine, and makes you reach for another one. Not because you're hungry, darlings. Because you've been engineered to.
A study published in the journal Addiction found that during the years tobacco companies owned these food brands, their products were eighty percent more likely to be classified as 'hyper-palatable' than those made by non-tobacco-owned competitors. Eighty percent, mes choux. They weren't making food. They were making cravings.
And then — and this is the part that makes this fox's brush stand absolutely on end — they deployed the same marketing. Cartoon mascots on cereal boxes, the same way Joe Camel sold cigarettes to teenagers. 'Low fat!' and 'reduced sugar!' labels, the same way 'light' cigarettes reassured smokers that they were making the healthy choice. Targeted campaigns aimed at children and minorities. And when the science started to show that these foods were causing obesity, diabetes, and heart disease on a staggering scale? They did what they always do, darlings. They funded counter-research. They muddied the waters. They lobbied. They delayed. They denied.
The same playbook. The same people. Different wrapper.
By the 2000s, the tobacco companies spun off their food divisions and walked away. But the formulations they created — the bliss-pointed, hyper-palatable, addictive-by-design products — are still on every shelf in every supermarket in the country. The scientists left. The recipes stayed.
And here, mes choux, is what this fox wants you to understand: when you buy food from a producer — a real producer, a farmer, a grower, a butcher, a baker, a person whose name you know — you are stepping outside that machine entirely. There is no bliss point in a lamb chop. There is no engineered craving in a tomato that was picked from the vine. Nobody hired a team of ex-tobacco scientists to make a proper sourdough loaf more addictive. Real food doesn't need a formula, darlings. It just needs to be good.
So. Next time you pick up a packet of something and you can't stop eating it — ask yourself: is that because it's delicious, or because it was designed to be impossible to put down? And ask yourself who designed it. And with what playbook.
Because Marlon knew, darlings. Sitting on that veranda in the dark, cigar in one hand, Mallomars in the other. Same people. Same game.
He just couldn't stop reaching for the packet. And that, mes choux, was rather the point.
Toodle pip.
R.
X
P.S. Marlon offered me a Mallomar as I was leaving. I told him that a fox of my refinement couldn't possibly eat something engineered by tobacco scientists. He fixed me with that look, darlings. I ate three. It was, mes choux, an offer I couldn't refuse.
